Schiit Audio Modi, and Magni aka the Schiit Stack! These are a great addition for someone looking for a DAC and amp for their high quality headphone setup. These ran my Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 250ohm for years and never skipped a beat (pun intended). The sale includes both amp and DAC, along with the Schiit Audio PYST cables. I do have both wall-worts, but one of my dogs chewed a cable in half. I can include both of them in sale if you would like to repair the cable (seems to a pretty simple repair) or they run for $10 on Schiit's site. Spent about $250 on everything a few years ago and will sell shipped for $100 obo. Thanks, and lemme know if you have any questions!!
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[FS] Schiit Audio Stack $100 obo shipped
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3600 Temp
Hi guys, first time build and not over clocked. I have downloaded some amd drivers and using amd performance for power supply. The idle temp is about 42/44c. I have used stock cooler and stock paste. If I don’t oc and browse/game will this be ok? If I removed cpu cooler and applied thermal grizzly paste would this be sufficient. I’ve also got the cou fan running at about 1800rpm.
Corsair rm650x
Corsair mp510
Corsair 3600 low profile ram
Rx 5700 mech oc
Msi tomahawk max
Corsair 460x rgb
Ryzen 3600x
Corsair rm650x
Corsair mp510
Corsair 3600 low profile ram
Rx 5700 mech oc
Msi tomahawk max
Corsair 460x rgb
Ryzen 3600x
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I3-8300 overclock help
Hi, im relatively new to the pc world and dont know very much so please forgive me if anything here sounds incorrect. One of my buddies was talking to me about overclocked my cpu. I thought that would be cool as it would boost the performance i get in game theoretically. As i was trying to do so by watching a guide i noticed that i was missing certain settings in the bios that the person i was watching had. As well as not being able to set the ratio of my cpu past the default of its 3.7Ghz. I dont know if i did something wrong or if im just stupid. Please help. My pc specs are in the file below
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Help, having issues with GPU upgrade
Hey all
I just purchase the EVGA RTX 2060KO and am upgrading from GTX 760. I uninstalled the previous drivers using DDU and installed the latest Nvidia driver. I am now having an issue that every time I try to play a game (Minecraft, Destiny 2) in full screen, my PC would reboot. It doesn't seem to be an overheating issue cause I am monitoring with CoreTemp and MSI Afterburner. Minecraft was working fine with the GTX 760 except for the low frame rates but the GTX 760 couldn't handle D2. The reboot only happens when I full screen games, internet, streaming works fine. Could it be a defective card? I don't think is the PSU either.
My set up
i7 4790k stock
Trident 16GB DDR3
Gigabyte Z97X-UD7
Raidmax 750W psu
I just purchase the EVGA RTX 2060KO and am upgrading from GTX 760. I uninstalled the previous drivers using DDU and installed the latest Nvidia driver. I am now having an issue that every time I try to play a game (Minecraft, Destiny 2) in full screen, my PC would reboot. It doesn't seem to be an overheating issue cause I am monitoring with CoreTemp and MSI Afterburner. Minecraft was working fine with the GTX 760 except for the low frame rates but the GTX 760 couldn't handle D2. The reboot only happens when I full screen games, internet, streaming works fine. Could it be a defective card? I don't think is the PSU either.
My set up
i7 4790k stock
Trident 16GB DDR3
Gigabyte Z97X-UD7
Raidmax 750W psu
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Best case for triple 360mm rad or bigger? 2020
Any thoughts on what case would be the easiest to build a 3x360mm rad in, possibly bigger rads in?
So far the candidates are the O11XL and Phanteks 719
So far here are the problems I've seen
O11XL
- max is 3x360, not bigger
- hdd cage is not ventilated, possibly bad temp issues?
- 2 pieces of glass: hard to keep clean and shatter possibility
Phanteks 719
- Using 3 rads on [top,side,front] is a challenge in terms of space
- If bottom rad is used, it blocks the use of 3.5" hdd cages
Radiator: HWL 360 GTX (54mm), XSPC 360 EX (35mm) + TX (21mm)
Fans: Gentle Typhoon 2150 (25mm)
So far the candidates are the O11XL and Phanteks 719
So far here are the problems I've seen
O11XL
- max is 3x360, not bigger
- hdd cage is not ventilated, possibly bad temp issues?
- 2 pieces of glass: hard to keep clean and shatter possibility
Phanteks 719
- Using 3 rads on [top,side,front] is a challenge in terms of space
- If bottom rad is used, it blocks the use of 3.5" hdd cages
Radiator: HWL 360 GTX (54mm), XSPC 360 EX (35mm) + TX (21mm)
Fans: Gentle Typhoon 2150 (25mm)
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[WTB][USA] blower style reference only rx 5700 or 5700 xt
I only want a blower style, as I am experimenting with a soundproof PC case at the moment.
PM me with offer.
PM me with offer.
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G402 Hero and G303 Hero. Where is it?
Since mouse companies are too stupid to figure out the best shape is something resembling a Kana, Wheel Mouse Optical, or Lenovo office mouse, this is about the best you can hope for (No, G203 is not that shape, not even close). Also, fire whoever thought it was a good idea to release a G502 Hero instead of a G402 Hero. A 140 gram mouse in the year 2020? Is this a joke?
G402 shape is as good or better than G502 while being significantly less weight. Why would anyone want a 140 gram G502 Hero over a 100 gram G402 Hero? Nobody wants this. About the heaviest thing you can use without causing permanent damage to your wrist and arm is 100ish grams. Even though the G302/G303 shape is worse than the Kana and Wheel Mouse Optical shape, the fact people are selling new-old stock G303's for $400 should probably tell you it's a profitable course of action to make a G303 Hero as well.
G402 shape is as good or better than G502 while being significantly less weight. Why would anyone want a 140 gram G502 Hero over a 100 gram G402 Hero? Nobody wants this. About the heaviest thing you can use without causing permanent damage to your wrist and arm is 100ish grams. Even though the G302/G303 shape is worse than the Kana and Wheel Mouse Optical shape, the fact people are selling new-old stock G303's for $400 should probably tell you it's a profitable course of action to make a G303 Hero as well.
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D5 Pumps Getting Old and Weak
I have 2x EK Vario D5 pumps in series and they are pumping at less than 0.2 gallon/min combined. When I first assembled my computer they seemed to pump much faster. I tried the following:
-Set from PWM to DC in bios, set to 100%
-Unplugged the PWM wires
-Checked hoses for kinks.
-Removed GPU
Do pumps ever just get old and weak? They are over 3 years old. The motors alone now cost $80. That is about how much I paid for each pump assembly 3 years ago.
-Set from PWM to DC in bios, set to 100%
-Unplugged the PWM wires
-Checked hoses for kinks.
-Removed GPU
Do pumps ever just get old and weak? They are over 3 years old. The motors alone now cost $80. That is about how much I paid for each pump assembly 3 years ago.
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Help Watercooling C700P configuration?
I am new to this watercooling and i dont fully cool both my CPU and GPU i bought everything i need except for fitting and tubes i just hope that the community can help me write up a list to buy for fittings? i am looking to do for my c700p
the setup i wanted was like this
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4691/ARuIhV.jpg
there is a similar image like the one i want but slightly different anyone can help me determine what i need? plz
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4415/dtXl5E.png
i am doing PETG tubes and a few bends here and there! dont know exactly what fitting i need and about how much tubing ill need
the setup i wanted was like this
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4691/ARuIhV.jpg
there is a similar image like the one i want but slightly different anyone can help me determine what i need? plz
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4415/dtXl5E.png
i am doing PETG tubes and a few bends here and there! dont know exactly what fitting i need and about how much tubing ill need
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First Build in 10 years, First AMD CPU since the 1990s and First overlclock in forever (advice please :) )
Hi All,
First post so hopefully this is in the right place.
As the title suggests, ive just finished my 3900x build. Its the first PC ive built for 10 years as i went the pre built route for last 2 PCs, last time i used an AMD CPU was a K6-2 400 back in the 90s (iirc) and the last time i did any real overclocking was on a 266mhz Celeron that everyone was bumping to 400mhz at the time... that gives you an idea of my age :)
Anyway, i did my research, understand the dangers and have got my PC to a state where its stable, fast and Im ok with the risk/reward ratio but still feel I may have missed something being a noob to all this.
Im looking to run the below details 24/7 and my PC is used for Gaming, Photo and video editing as well ask the occasional bit of real work (Office 365 etc).
System is as follows;
Ryzen 3900x
Asrock Taichi x570
32gb (2x16g) Crucial Ballistix 3600 ram
Corsair h115i Platinum AIO
2 x 1TB Sabrent Rocket PCI-E Gen 4 Nvme drives (1 x boot/applications, 1 x most played games)
2TB Crucial MX500 SSD 'Steam library'
Corsair 750rmx PSU
EVGA 1080Ti FTW ICX (carry over from my last PC as waiting on next-gen)
Settings/overclock wise I've got the Ram running at 3800mhz coupled with 1900 IF. Timings are 16-16-19-16-36 @ 1.44v (as per DRAM calc for Ryzens settings).
SOC is at 1.1v, VDDP at 1.0v and VDDG at 0.9v
CPU I have an all-core overclock of 4.4ghz @ 1.325v LLC 2 set in the BIOS (anything lower than LLC 2 needed at least 1.35v to be stable).
Ryzen master says I'm at 1.325v, however, CPUID shows 1.328v and bumps up to 1.344v under max load (R20/Prime) which i guess is the LLC kicking in?
Temps wise I see idles around the mid-30s, gaming around low 60s and R20 high 60s, occasionally creeping into the low 70s. Prime 95 after about 20 mins gets to mid-70s. I have seen one core fail at around 30 mins but I'm not too worried about that. I've not seen any unstable behaviors anywhere else.
Performance-wise I see improvements over PBO and stock. With PBO I was seeing split seconds up to 4.575ghz on one core and a couple more on that CCX getting to 4.5, however in the main they mostly hovered around 4.35 at best. I did follow the guidance on tweaking PBO through PPT/TDC/EDC and did see improvements but still below that of the all core O/C.
I get the same single-core result in R20 (509) with the all-core clock as I do with Auto/PBO and see a jump from 7196 to 7750 on multicore.
FarCry 5 renders about 200 more frames with the all-core clock in the benchmark with the average FPS going from 109 to 111 at 1440p maxed out/hi-def texture pack. World of Warcraft seems to have 5-10 more FPS standing around in Boralus Harbour with the multi core overclock but this is hard to verify of course.
So generally very happy with my first AMD build and overclock of this century , im even pleased with my cable management in the Fractal Meshify S2, that was so much nicer to build in that my last one :) ..but still nags me that its all gone too well so I may be missing something or misunderstood something.
I know some may consider the Vcore a little high, especially when the LLC kicks in, but as I said I'm happy with the risk vs reward as I always like to get the best out of things but i acknowledge im new to this platform so willing to listen to anyone that thinks I'm pushing it too hard for 24/7.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all :)
First post so hopefully this is in the right place.
As the title suggests, ive just finished my 3900x build. Its the first PC ive built for 10 years as i went the pre built route for last 2 PCs, last time i used an AMD CPU was a K6-2 400 back in the 90s (iirc) and the last time i did any real overclocking was on a 266mhz Celeron that everyone was bumping to 400mhz at the time... that gives you an idea of my age :)
Anyway, i did my research, understand the dangers and have got my PC to a state where its stable, fast and Im ok with the risk/reward ratio but still feel I may have missed something being a noob to all this.
Im looking to run the below details 24/7 and my PC is used for Gaming, Photo and video editing as well ask the occasional bit of real work (Office 365 etc).
System is as follows;
Ryzen 3900x
Asrock Taichi x570
32gb (2x16g) Crucial Ballistix 3600 ram
Corsair h115i Platinum AIO
2 x 1TB Sabrent Rocket PCI-E Gen 4 Nvme drives (1 x boot/applications, 1 x most played games)
2TB Crucial MX500 SSD 'Steam library'
Corsair 750rmx PSU
EVGA 1080Ti FTW ICX (carry over from my last PC as waiting on next-gen)
Settings/overclock wise I've got the Ram running at 3800mhz coupled with 1900 IF. Timings are 16-16-19-16-36 @ 1.44v (as per DRAM calc for Ryzens settings).
SOC is at 1.1v, VDDP at 1.0v and VDDG at 0.9v
CPU I have an all-core overclock of 4.4ghz @ 1.325v LLC 2 set in the BIOS (anything lower than LLC 2 needed at least 1.35v to be stable).
Ryzen master says I'm at 1.325v, however, CPUID shows 1.328v and bumps up to 1.344v under max load (R20/Prime) which i guess is the LLC kicking in?
Temps wise I see idles around the mid-30s, gaming around low 60s and R20 high 60s, occasionally creeping into the low 70s. Prime 95 after about 20 mins gets to mid-70s. I have seen one core fail at around 30 mins but I'm not too worried about that. I've not seen any unstable behaviors anywhere else.
Performance-wise I see improvements over PBO and stock. With PBO I was seeing split seconds up to 4.575ghz on one core and a couple more on that CCX getting to 4.5, however in the main they mostly hovered around 4.35 at best. I did follow the guidance on tweaking PBO through PPT/TDC/EDC and did see improvements but still below that of the all core O/C.
I get the same single-core result in R20 (509) with the all-core clock as I do with Auto/PBO and see a jump from 7196 to 7750 on multicore.
FarCry 5 renders about 200 more frames with the all-core clock in the benchmark with the average FPS going from 109 to 111 at 1440p maxed out/hi-def texture pack. World of Warcraft seems to have 5-10 more FPS standing around in Boralus Harbour with the multi core overclock but this is hard to verify of course.
So generally very happy with my first AMD build and overclock of this century , im even pleased with my cable management in the Fractal Meshify S2, that was so much nicer to build in that my last one :) ..but still nags me that its all gone too well so I may be missing something or misunderstood something.
I know some may consider the Vcore a little high, especially when the LLC kicks in, but as I said I'm happy with the risk vs reward as I always like to get the best out of things but i acknowledge im new to this platform so willing to listen to anyone that thinks I'm pushing it too hard for 24/7.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all :)
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AVX Problem (Bug?) on X299
Hey Guys,
I hope this is the right area for my problem.
I recently bought a new ASUS Rampage VI Extreme Encore with an i7 7820X
I managed to overclock this booi to around 5,2GHz, which is quite nice.
But unfortunately my CPU clock speed is rising up and down with no structure.
This bothers me hard. But i managed to find out, that the problem is AVX.
Everytime, when I open an AVX application my clockspeeds start to freak out.
It drops down to 3,3GHz and half a second later back to 5,2 or only 4,7 and so on.
The system becomes very unstable, and also unuseable.
I really dont have a clue why this is happening. I tried all Bios Versions which are available at ASUS
I also deactiavted everything with temperature and power.
Tried it with LN2 mode.
Nothing is changing this behavior.
The AVX Target speed is equal to the normal clock speed in Bios (Offset = 0).
Even if I try to put in 3 as offset, it doesnt respond to it. It just peak and freaks CPU clocks again down to 3,3GHz.
I tested it with Prime. If i activate AVX in Prime the clocks drop. Without AVX in Prime it is holding its clocks without any Problem (like any other benchmark too).
I really dont know what to do. And I hope one of You guys knows what to do. I would be very thankfull about it.
Best regards
xtremefunky
I hope this is the right area for my problem.
I recently bought a new ASUS Rampage VI Extreme Encore with an i7 7820X
I managed to overclock this booi to around 5,2GHz, which is quite nice.
But unfortunately my CPU clock speed is rising up and down with no structure.
This bothers me hard. But i managed to find out, that the problem is AVX.
Everytime, when I open an AVX application my clockspeeds start to freak out.
It drops down to 3,3GHz and half a second later back to 5,2 or only 4,7 and so on.
The system becomes very unstable, and also unuseable.
I really dont have a clue why this is happening. I tried all Bios Versions which are available at ASUS
I also deactiavted everything with temperature and power.
Tried it with LN2 mode.
Nothing is changing this behavior.
The AVX Target speed is equal to the normal clock speed in Bios (Offset = 0).
Even if I try to put in 3 as offset, it doesnt respond to it. It just peak and freaks CPU clocks again down to 3,3GHz.
I tested it with Prime. If i activate AVX in Prime the clocks drop. Without AVX in Prime it is holding its clocks without any Problem (like any other benchmark too).
I really dont know what to do. And I hope one of You guys knows what to do. I would be very thankfull about it.
Best regards
xtremefunky
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MSI B350 PC MATE Bios Unlock
Hi , can anyone unlock the extra features for MSI B350 PC MATE latest bios? (normal or beta) Thanks
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/supp...MATE#down-bios
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/supp...MATE#down-bios
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How do I make a dust filter for the back of my case?
Hi, I have a fractal desing r6 and it has dust filters on the top, bottom and front and yet my pc literally fills up with dust. So I wonder, because the only place where it doesn't have a dust filter is in the back, if I can make a dust filter for the back of the cabinet. In the back of the cabinet I have all the PCIe slots removed and without the fan. Attached is a photo of the back of the case.
I hope with your advice I can get a little less dust on my pc.
Thank you very much in advance.
Best regards.
Translated with wwwDeepLcom/Translator (free version)
I hope with your advice I can get a little less dust on my pc.
Thank you very much in advance.
Best regards.
Translated with wwwDeepLcom/Translator (free version)
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Good or bad? Samsung B Die Confusion
is this a b-die worth getting for?
my friend bought them very cheaply and found out its samsung b die. ?? they are very cheap. For example, bad micron b-die vengeance lpx rams cost 85 dollars (600 tl) (which i have), these kits cost 107 dollars (750 tl)
https://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/vulcan-tuf-ddr4
https://www.incehesap.com/team-t-for...-fiyati-45519/
3600 19-19-19 kinda made me suspicious but he got good timings stable as well (3733 cl15)
do you think i should buy them and then sell my micron b dies? would it be worth it for my 2700x system_?
I think they are low binned or no?
my friend bought them very cheaply and found out its samsung b die. ?? they are very cheap. For example, bad micron b-die vengeance lpx rams cost 85 dollars (600 tl) (which i have), these kits cost 107 dollars (750 tl)
https://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/vulcan-tuf-ddr4
https://www.incehesap.com/team-t-for...-fiyati-45519/
3600 19-19-19 kinda made me suspicious but he got good timings stable as well (3733 cl15)
do you think i should buy them and then sell my micron b dies? would it be worth it for my 2700x system_?
I think they are low binned or no?
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Reduce your GPU/Display latency - Undocumented Nvidia tweak
In honor of r0ach - all of you are ******** hardcapped in head worms. Enjoy this, I have 1k more of em and im not sharing it with you.
create the following registry key
PATH : Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlS et\Services\nvlddmkm
NAME : DisableWriteCombining
TYPE: DWORD
Value: 1
Info: Controls the flag for memory mapping IO space of GPU with disabling caching/write combining ( https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/win...y_caching_type)
SHUT DOWN -> RE-START to notice change
There's your "proof", NVIDIA uses tricks to milk out more FPS for benchmarks as anyone whos not asleep inside the matrix already knows. Your fps might tank 10-20% depending on cards
create the following registry key
PATH : Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlS et\Services\nvlddmkm
NAME : DisableWriteCombining
TYPE: DWORD
Value: 1
Info: Controls the flag for memory mapping IO space of GPU with disabling caching/write combining ( https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/win...y_caching_type)
SHUT DOWN -> RE-START to notice change
There's your "proof", NVIDIA uses tricks to milk out more FPS for benchmarks as anyone whos not asleep inside the matrix already knows. Your fps might tank 10-20% depending on cards
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DDR3 vs DDR4 in gaming
So I have some old unused components from a build I never finished. And I was going to build a new gaming rig out of them. The mobo used ddr3 and im curious how different it would be to use it vs a board with ddr4. I just read the Star Citizen System requirements and they say specifically 16gb ddr4.
Planned build
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Turbo EVO Video Card ($529.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($81.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GM 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($117.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $829.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-17 11:13 EDT-0400
Planned build
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
Motherboard: Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Turbo EVO Video Card ($529.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($81.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GM 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($117.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $829.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-17 11:13 EDT-0400
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Are there any viable SFF cases for watercooling?
Hey everyone! I'm coming from a long history of "idgaf how big my case is as long as I have the best performance" but having realized I simply can't keep up with constantly updating my PC, I'd like to migrate my Case Labs build (as you can imagine, it's quite massive) into something smaller that can potentially sit on top of my desk. I was originally looking into the Louqe S1 but it seems like they're coming out with a new version (MkIII) and aren't readily available. I've also read some issues with potential quality problems with the MkII. I've never done a SFF build before and my main goal is really to have "pretty good" performance in a small tier. I also would love to watercool the computer. With the Louqe, I wouldn't mind adding a large top hat to accomplish this goal.
Ever since I completed my first build in 2011 (Case Labs Magnum M8) and then migrated it in 2013 into a Magnum SMH10, I've always considered Case Labs in the highest tier of computer cases. Does something exist like this for SFF PCs? I actually came across this YouTube video ( ) which is almost exactly what I would be looking to do, but then I saw he also migrated 4 months later into another SFF PC (Sidearm T1).
Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated!
Ever since I completed my first build in 2011 (Case Labs Magnum M8) and then migrated it in 2013 into a Magnum SMH10, I've always considered Case Labs in the highest tier of computer cases. Does something exist like this for SFF PCs? I actually came across this YouTube video ( ) which is almost exactly what I would be looking to do, but then I saw he also migrated 4 months later into another SFF PC (Sidearm T1).
Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated!
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zotac nvidia gtx 970
I put the My zotac nvidia gtx 970 in pciex16 slot and run the pc and i am install the letest driver on the card and install them pc required restart and i restart the pc and boot but blanck screen after boot and i boot my pc safe mode and uninstall the graphic driver and start the pc and everything is fine but graphic driver installed and problem it please help me sorry for my english
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Stumped on high Temps under load and low idles
So I have an 8700k that I actually feel pretty lucky with. I've got it stable at 5.1 ghz on 1.27v but I'm having a weird issue with my 100i pro AIO. At idle in windows I'm seeing around 28-30c but when I run the small load in OCCT, temps immediately shoot up to 90C. If I run medium or large in OCCT I never see it jump above 70c which I'm still not sure if that's normal. I can see pump and fan speeds in icue and I have them set to extreme. The fact that I can see it keep the temps low at idle and under smaller loads makes me think the pump is functional but most everywhere else I read people putting 1.35+ volts on this processor and keeping it under 75c at full load. Does anyone have any suggestions? I should mention I've reseated it twice and even threw cryonaut on it and saw temps drop a couple of C at idle so I know it was done properly. X pattern and all of that.
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Case airflow temp and water cooling. Learn something new every build
I arranged the case and rad fans in what I think is unconventional. Compared to my corsair case, the Lian Li case just seems difficult to keep the aesthetics and practical case cooling.
I'm not giving up.
I decided to try both rads exhaust and the case fans intake.
I do have a slight negative pressure. I installed filters at the air flow entries for now.
I notice I was getting higher air temps at the bottom rad compared to the top rad. At first I thought it was pulling the hot exhaust air back into the case from the PSU.
I blocked the PCI from air entering the case and the temps climbed another degree. To the right of the bottom rad was another airway. I blocked that and it climbed even higher again.
I was running Aida Stress test on the GPU and CPU and the temps were steady. I think the CPU approached 90c and the GPU at 40c after half hour or so.
Then I thought, what if I slowed the bottom raid push/pull down and see how it affects the temps.
The top airflow temps increase and the bottom airflow temp decrease. I felt dumb.
I admit I been so focused on radiators and water cooling, I never thought about case airflow balancing. I also wouldn't believe just adjusting fan rpm's that you can watch temps in the case change that fast.
Even at idle I can see a difference in temps. The bottoms rads was just exhausting more air then the top and allowed the top to get the cooler air from the back.
In the end, I don't think it matters much since the water loop is balanced. The air flowing through that RAD did hit 31 deg during the stress test at 100% RPM.
Attached are screenshots at idle. 100% RPM and 50% RPM.
Current test arrangement below.....
Installed temp sensors located...
I'm not giving up.
I decided to try both rads exhaust and the case fans intake.
I do have a slight negative pressure. I installed filters at the air flow entries for now.
I notice I was getting higher air temps at the bottom rad compared to the top rad. At first I thought it was pulling the hot exhaust air back into the case from the PSU.
I blocked the PCI from air entering the case and the temps climbed another degree. To the right of the bottom rad was another airway. I blocked that and it climbed even higher again.
I was running Aida Stress test on the GPU and CPU and the temps were steady. I think the CPU approached 90c and the GPU at 40c after half hour or so.
Then I thought, what if I slowed the bottom raid push/pull down and see how it affects the temps.
The top airflow temps increase and the bottom airflow temp decrease. I felt dumb.
I admit I been so focused on radiators and water cooling, I never thought about case airflow balancing. I also wouldn't believe just adjusting fan rpm's that you can watch temps in the case change that fast.
Even at idle I can see a difference in temps. The bottoms rads was just exhausting more air then the top and allowed the top to get the cooler air from the back.
In the end, I don't think it matters much since the water loop is balanced. The air flowing through that RAD did hit 31 deg during the stress test at 100% RPM.
Attached are screenshots at idle. 100% RPM and 50% RPM.
Current test arrangement below.....
- I placed couple artic 140mm P14 and Noctua 92mm for intake on the flipside.
- I put spacers behind the distro plate and removed grommets in a few key areas where the rear fans are.
Installed temp sensors located...
- Flipside between the intake fans.
- left fan of top rad
- right fan of top rad
- center of bottom rad.
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